A Peak Inside My Little Paris Black Book
the best places to eat, drink, shop and pass the time in the city of light
Finally!!
Chris and I have been going to Paris every year (except for 2020) since 2019. It started as a week, then a month a year later after a trip to Italy. Then another month a year later, then two, and now we’re moving there.
Ironically, Paris wasn’t really on my radar before our first trip there - it wasn’t somewhere I was dying to go. Funny how things work out.
You’re not going to find Café de Flore or Les Deux Magot below - the city truly has so much more to offer.
Instead you’ll find the places that I frequent most. It’s what I’m sending in DM’s when someone tells me they’re going to Paris - a short, sweet, down and dirty guide to my favorite places to eat, drink, shop and pass the time in the city of light.
They are tried and true!
Stay
I’ve only stayed in a hotel once in Paris (it’s not worth sharing, trust me), only because every other time I’ve been to Paris it’s been for longer than a week. We typically rent an AirBnB or an apartment via Blueground (great for long-term stays). However these are the places I would investigate, and splurge on, if I was visiting the city.
Chateau Voltaire - this has been on my hotel bucket list for a while, solely for the interiors. It’s very centrally located in the 1st arrondissement and an easy walk to the Tuileries and many of the cafes mentioned below.
Hôtel Madame Rêve - perfect location right in the 1st and a stones throw from Jardin du Palais Royal. Apparently the hotel was 19 years in the making and used to be an old post office. The interiors look incredible - warm, decadent, golden - an aesthetes dream, especially if you can snag a room on a higher floor. Word on the street is that it has a huge rooftop terrace (will take one for the team and investigate).
Hotel Particulier - a bit further north in Montmarte, but so worth it. Less hotel, more intimate maison - it’s the former home of the Hermès family. It has 5 suites, each with their own distinct vibe and decor. I’m most intrigued by the garden though - it looks incredible!
Hôtel des Académies et desArts - part hotel, part artists studio, which immediately reminds me of Palazzo Daniele in Puglia. It’s right in the 6th, just south of Jardin du Luxembourg and Saint-Germain-des-Prés.
The Hoxton - is good. Our AirBnB last year was around the corner so I spent a bit of working in their lobby (they allow laptops) and meeting friends for a drink at their natural wine bar. It’s centrally located (right near two subways that run east-west) and has good a good food and bev program and an incredible lobby. However, I feel like there are better, more unique options in the city. Nevertheless it’s a solid option if you’re visiting.
A few more off the beaten path boutique options here!
Eat
If you know me irl, then you know I don’t simply eat for sustenance - I hate a bad meal. Also, how awful is a bad meal when you’re on vacation?? The thing about Paris is you can sit down anywhere and probably have a decent meal, especially as you move out of the city center. But we’re not here for decent, we’re here for something much more memorable.
It’s also worth mentioning that a lot of my favorite places are influenced by whether or not they can accommodate food intolerances like dairy and egg, so something to keep in mind as you peruse below.
Glou - in a way this has become our “go-to” for an easy, low fuss dinner. I wouldn’t say it’s a French bistro, but it has the vibe. The wine selection doesn’t hurt either. Sometimes we’ll stop in for just a glass of wine, other times a full meal. Imo the best seats are outside, right by the window or on the second floor by the window over looking the park across the street.
Clamato - definitely one to visit if you’re a seafood and natural wine lover. They don’t take reservations so be sure to get there right when they open or be prepared to put your name in and grab a drink at Septime Le Cave across the street.
Early June - quite possibly my favorite restaurant in Paris atm. Their wine is incredible, the vibes are always high (their staff is so lovely) but what’s fun is that they feature different chefs from all over the world. They only take reservations for 4 or more, so if you’re a party of 3 or less get there right when they open or be prepared to put your name in and grab a drink near by or stroll the canals.
Gramme - they have two restaurants, one in the 3rd that is best for breakfast and lunch and one in the 11th, that is better for lunch and dinner. Can’t go wrong with either of them!
Mokonuts - I’ve only been here once, but it was incredible! They only do breakfast and lunch and they are one you definitely need to book in advance. Also loved their dinner outpost, Mokoloco. It has a similar concept to Early June with rotating chefs.
Le Saint Sebastian - a bit more off the beaten path in the 11th and consistently one of our favorite “nicer'“ dinner spots since 2019. Their known for both their robust wine list and modern french cuisine that has a strong focus on vegetables and seasonal ingredients.
Café Campagnon - this place is so underrated imo. From the interiors to the coffee (organic and locally roasted), no detail is left untouched. We usually go for dinner, but they’re open all day (we went for coffee and morning snacks once and wondered why we didn’t do it more often). Their menu changes seasonally and their outdoor space oozes with French charm. They also make their own chocolate!
Miznon - Israeli street food, right in the heart of Paris. A great spot to grab lunch or dinner and take it to a more scenic spot. We’ve only been for lunch, but they do dinner during the week as well. Don’t skip the pita, it’s incredible.
Bouche - another good spot with great natural wines and epic small plates. The menu is seasonal, changing every two weeks, and has a European, Southeast Asian flare. Can’t go wrong with anything here.
Kitchen - the vibes at the restaurant are sub-par, but their gf vegan buckwheat pancakes are a hole in one. Ditto their banana bread. Every Sunday we usually UberEats pancakes for brunch along with their green smoothie. Great for breakfast, brunch and lunch.
Plant-Based and Gluten-Free Favorites
For my fellow gluten-free, dairy-free, and/or vegan eaters who love a good smoothie, green juice or salad.
Judy Cafe - 100% gluten-free, house-made, and refined-sugar free. It’s not fully vegan, but there are a lot of vegan and vegetarian options. They have two locations, one in the 6th and the 1st arrondissement.
Wild and the Moon - if you need a break from croissants and wine, this is your spot (they have a handful of locations around the city). Great for juices, smoothie bowls, and plant-based eats. Everything is gf and vegan.
Maisie Café - outside of Bastion in Portland, this is the best gluten-free, vegan bread I’ve had. I love coming here for lunch (the tarte de jour and hummus pita are my go to) or to grab a piece of banana bread for a sweet treat. They are only open during the week.
Mesa de Hoy - if you’re vegan and visiting Paris I highly recommend the trek up to Hotel Hoy for brunch, lunch or dinner or here. It’s fully plant-based and unlike some of the other plant-based options mentioned, this one is a “finer” dining option. I’ve only been for dinner, but brunch looks great.
Land & Monkeys Bakery - vegan and organic bakery! Not gluten-free, but tbh the gluten in Europe doesn’t bother me that much.
Love Juice Bar - I never get to go here as much because we usually stay near the 3rd and 4th, but I think this is the best, juice and smoothie spot in Paris. When we stayed in the 6th I used to UberEats from them all the time.
Aura - another contender for a good smoothie. Right in the 3rd near Les Halles.
Bakeries
If I indulge in baked goods, especially dairy-filled ones, they need to be worth it. I want the best of the best. These are the one’s I’ve tried so far and loved.
Fun fact, by law, baguettes can only consist of wheat flour, water, salt and yeast. What sets them apart is the quality of those ingredients and the baking techniques.
Additionally, by law, bakers can’t roll out a straight croissant unless it has 100% butter. Curved croissants can be a mixture of fats, but mostly consist of margarine. So if you’re looking for croissants, make sure it’s straight.
Mamiche - there are not many things I stand in line for but Mamiche is one of them. They have two locations, one in the 10th and one in the 9th.
Du Pain et des Idéeas - this was where I had my first croissant in Paris and I feel like it set the bar very high. The bakery itself dates back to 1875 and is so charming. The owner, Christophe Vasseur, embraces a more purist approach to baking, focusing on the best raw materials, mainly from organic sources, and ancestral baking techniques to create glutenous magic.
MieMie - if you find yourself near Bastille or wandering in the 11th. Definitely pop in here for a treat.
For my gluten-free folks, Chambelland is the cities go-to bakery for gluten-free bread. They supply a lot of restaurants that offer gf options. I’ve never been, but they have two bakery locations in the city - one in the 11th, and one in the 17th arrondissement.
Coffee
Sadly, the cute French bistros just don’t do a good dairy-free cappuccino or latte imo. If you find one, please let me know, because I would love to have a little Parisian moment at one. If you want a cup of coffee that’s actually good, try one of the below spots.
The Coffee - their matcha is meh, but their coffee is spot on. I also love that they serve Minor Figures oat milk. Tons of locations around the city.
ARTESANO - if you love photography and the art of coffee this is your spot. It was founded by a Mexican photographer, barista and roaster himself and features exclusively Mexican coffee. It’s tucked deep in the 4th, near the Seine and makes for a great spot to grab a coffee before (or after) a walk a long the river.
Dreamin Man - I love the vibe here. It’s equal parts vintage, artsy and rustic. It’s the perfect spot to sit with a journal or a friend. Coffee is definitely their thing (the owner works with April and Prolog coffee from Denmark), but they also serve an incredible hojicha latte. News to me, but apparently all of their baked goods are made in house by the owners girlfriend and not to be missed.
Back in Black // KB Coffee Roasters - same same, but different. Back in Black is the flagship cafe by local roaster KB Coffee Roaster located in Bastille. KB Coffee Roasters also has an outpost in the 9th where you can get coffee and light bites.
Partisan Café - this place is so trendy, but one of my favorite places to sit and have a cup of coffee or matcha (excellent people and fashion watching). When it’s nice out, they open the floor-to-ceiling windows allowing cafe goers to easily spill into the street. There’s typically always a line, but it moves quickly.
Recto Verso - I’ve only been once, but the coffee was fantastic.
Sevenly Heart - ok so the coffee and matcha are so so, but the vibes are so good here that I had to include it. It’s a zoo on the weekend, but lovely during the week.
Matcha
I will admit, I’m a bit of a matcha snob. A purist if you will - although I do like some milk in mine. It must be vibrant green and if it’s a latte, not just a cup of milk with a dusting of matcha. I don’t need fancy sugars or syrups, just matcha. The search is still on, but so far these are the winners.
Partisan Café - their hot matcha latte’s are kind of like matcha macchiato’s, but I’m not complaining. Strong and to the point.
Typica Specialty Coffee - I’m partial to their non-dairy milks here (I usually opt for almond since it’s unsweetened), but they also make a mean matcha! I’m also a fan of their coffee, but Chris liked the one’s above more.
Matcha Social - it’s kind of their thing.
Adult Beverages
I’m partial to a glass of wine, but also enjoy a good cocktail. Unlike coffee, you can sit down anywhere and have a decent glass of wine (I mean, it’s France), but if you’re looking for something a little more interesting, then the below are great options.
Gramme 11 - natural wine and good eats
Bouche - natural wine and good eats
Septime La Cave - I’m still manifesting a reservation at Septime, but until I get one I’ll be frequenting their wine bar instead. It’s super small so be prepared to take your glass of wine outside on the sidewalk.
Le Mary Celeste - natural wine and good eats. I’ve been meaning to get dinner here! Also a great place to stop and have a glass of wine after meandering around Marais.
Early June - natural wine and good eats. Sometimes we’ll just grab a bottle and enjoy it by the canal.
La Carte des Vins - not technically a wine bar, but we loved every bottle we got from this wine shop. Grab a bottle and some snacks and take it to the Place des Vosges for an apéro in the park.
Classique - not your traditional cocktails, but loved what we got! All of their cocktails incorporate a natural wine element. Super cool spot to sit and have a cocktail right in the 9th.
Sevenly Heart - I’ve only been for coffee, but apparently they have a natural wine program.
Les Flacons - good wine shop in the 6th that we went to in June and really enjoyed.
Shop
I think I need a whole separate guide, by category, for shopping in Paris. The city has everything you could possibly imagine. Outside of vintage, and European luxury designers (which are always cheaper in Europe than in the US) these are a few stores I always stop into and pass along to friends when they ask for recommendations.
Le Bon Marche - you can’t go wrong with the department stores in Paris, but I’m partial to LBM. It feels more intimate and manageable than some of the others without skimping on their assortment.
LouLou Studio - their one and only store in is in Paris. Their a French brand (founded by Chloé Harrouche) with a minimal, “classic-with-a-twist” vibe. Their pieces are often feminine, with a masculine touch, and minimal, but every so slightly edgy. They also focus heavily on OEKO-TEX certified and natural fibers.
Nour Hammour (studio appointment) - a bit out of the way, but such a special experience if you are in the market for a leather or shearling coat! I love this brand so much. Female-founded, and run. Everything is designed in Paris and made at their atelier in Paris or Istanbul. Their production is small, and made-to-order, to keep waste low and allow for customization should a customer need it.
La Collection (studio appointment) - also not to be missed if you love a more minimal style. Recapped my experience here.
Officine Universelle Buly - I feel like this place is a toy store for anywho who loves beauty and interiors. Their fragrances feel most special to me (love L'Eau Triple "Oud de Medine") as do their brushes, combs and lip balm that you can have monogramed. They also sell a wide range of skincare and body products that are all developed and formulated in their French laboratory. They have four locations around the city, one of which offers massages. Their Marais location also has a coffee bar inside!
Broken Arm - still wondering if I’m cool enough for this boutique, but I love to pop in from time to time. Dreamin’ Man also has a cafe set up in there. Lots of Alaia, Lemaire, Prada, and Comme de Garçon and trendy sneakers.
Merci - a great place to spend a few hours perusing. It kind of reminds me of an Anthropology store, but better. I have to avoid their home section otherwise I would buy it all. Their cafe also serves a great lunch and if I remember correctly they just partnered with Cafe Noir on a coffee shop a few doors down.
The Frankie Shop - stop in on your way to or from Merci. Don’t miss the men’s section across the street!
Similar to luxury brands, if you are visiting Paris from the US, your favorite high-street brands will be cheaper as well.
Vintage
No trip to Paris is complete without a little vintage shopping. I fully expect this list to grow as I’m there, but these are the one’s I always stop by.
Alé - not only does he have a great eye (Saint Laurant, Mugler, Gucci etc.), but a great presentation. He also has a small selection of men’s upstairs and his own made-to-order line of dresses, jackets and coats!
Odetta - a small, but impactful selection of more recent vintage from brands like The Row, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Prada, Celine and Saint Laurent.
The top floor of Printemp - it’s all vintage, and has an incredible view of the city.
Saint Ouen Flea Market - this place is a gold mine and a thrifters dream. I’ve only been twice so I’m by no means an expert, but I’m planning to go a lot more over the next year.
is one of my favorite resources for the flea market (a fellow American in Paris!) and even offers flea market experiences.Skat Vintage - so underrated and has an incredible selection. The owner has such a good eye.
Do
Very rarely do I do tours or organized events when I travel. I’m much more of an “experience by doing” kind of person. I love to take in a city myself, although sometimes its nice to get the historical context that tour guides often provide. Below are a few ways to experience the city without getting trapped on top level of a double-decker tour bus in the rain.
Jardin du Luxembourg - when we did our first month long stay in Paris we were two blocks from Luxembourg. I didn’t realize how lucky we were until we stayed in the 2nd. Lovely to walk through or take a nap in.
Jardin du Palais Royal - hands down one of my favorite spots to escape the city north of Seine. Cafe Creme (they do a good lunch!) and Cafe Kitsune do decent enough coffee and matcha to grab one and enjoy it in the park. Alternatively, swing by Matcha Social, Telescope or The Coffee on your way to the garden.
Indulge in a spa day - I’m slowly, but surely, building my arsenal of resources when it comes to skin, body, hair and nails in Paris. I always recommend a facial at Biologique Recherche. They’re a French brand and their products are so effective (also cheaper when bought in Paris). I’ve had some of the best facials at their location in the 6th. Diane Giraud is another facialist that I love (she uses BR) and does buccal facials as well. If you’re looking for a little lymphatic love after a long flight, definitely get in with Melanie. She’s so talented!
Pack an apéro to enjoy in a park or by the Seine - all you need is baguette, some cheese (or vegan cheese - BioCoop and Naturalia sell good ones), another snack or two like olives or sliced cucumber, and a good bottle of wine.
Bike in the city - if it’s nice, and you feel comfortable doing so, I highly recommend navigating the city by a Lime bike. I will never forget biking by the Tuilleries on a gorgeous sunny day. Core memory!
Pass the time at a museum - there are so many museums. I think part of the joy of visiting them in Paris is that they, and their surroundings, are works of art in and of themselves. I’ve barely scratched the surface, but a few of my favorites - Musée de l'Orangerie, Petit Palais, Azzedine Alaïa Foundation, Musée Yves Saint Laurent, La Galerie Dior, Musée Rodin. I don’t love Centre Pompidou (the whole Les Halles area feels a bit chaotic to me), but the view getting to the top floor is excellent. The Louvre is great, but the crowds kill the vibe for me. I much prefer to time it when it’s not busy. Early morning or late at night.
Ride to the top of the Eiffle Tower at sunset - I haven’t personally done this, but Chris did and said it was beautiful. And less crowded which I find hard to believe. If you want to take in the Eiffle Tower with less people, go to the Champ-de-Mars or Jardin de la Tour Eiffle.
Top of My List to Try
I couldn’t not include something special for my paid subscribers (will also have more Paris deep dives in the future for you) so here’s a little peak inside the “to check out” section of by Paris Black Book.
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